MFT/3 Replacement Table top Cut in 18mm Moisture Resistant MDF Multi Function Clamping Table

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MFT/3 Replacement Table top Cut in 18mm Moisture Resistant MDF Multi Function Clamping Table

MFT/3 Replacement Table top Cut in 18mm Moisture Resistant MDF Multi Function Clamping Table

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Even though it was a giant PITA, if I had it to do over, I would probably replicate my first big top.

I made this simple jig based off an existing top with extreme care and it works very well to duplicate hole patterns. And then I added a round over to the top edges of the trim, this is going to make the edges more durable. I was expecting to need to spend some time levelling the top shelf frame before adding the MFT top, but because I assembled it on a flat floor, it actually looked pretty good when sighting down the length.Being smooth one side also meant the bottom was exposed, and everywhere there was a knot, a potential void formed. I checked all four corners and I marked up the corner that I liked the most - it looked perfectly square so I'll work from that corner as my reference corner when I start to mark up the hole positions.

My combination square was still locked to 100mm having used it to scribe the centre line on my jig, and I could use that to mark up 100mm in from my reference corner of the table top along both the long and short edges. Before I go and spend my money on the wrong tools Does anybody know or have a link to the correct bushing size and drill bit that fits the 20mm MFT/3 holes used to prevent damaging the the top before drilling out the bulk of the holes?Originally I was just going to have 7 rows b 7 columns and I was going to have the rest of the table top as just a regular surface, but I ended up changing my mind and adding more holes because I figured it'd give me more options in future.

To secure the top I'm going to be using pocket holes, but without using a jig - I just get th drill bit started, and then slowly angle it and finish off the hole. Now remember, there are two schools of thought when it comes to the DIY group replicating MFT surfaces. If the blade fits right in to the same cut mark like it does here, that verifies that it's the true centre point. Partially plunge the 20 mm bit to align it with each hole in the first row, which means that you are essentially using the holes in the first row as a series of parallel guides to align the holey rail.The beauty about building your own isn’t just the cost-saving or even the satisfaction of having built your own workbench. Hold the square up to the edge, scribe a line, and then flip the square over, scribe another line, and if your square is square, those lines should be exactly the same distance away from one another. I'd also recommend just getting the hole started on the top side without going all the way through, and then flip the top over and drill through from the bottom. This could be the reason the guide rail brackets and fence attach and reference from the extruded side rails and not the holes in the top. It's a good idea to clamp the ruler down so that it doesn't move but I didn't bother I was just extra careful.

  • Fruugo ID: 258392218-563234582
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